The luxury watch market just stopped bleeding.

After thirteen consecutive quarters of decline, secondary prices finally posted quarterly gains in Q3 2024. Patek Philippe climbed 3.9%. Rolex rose 1.3%. The correction separated hype from lasting value.

Michael Ross watched it all unfold.

As vice president and head of watch sales at Christie's, Ross occupies a rare vantage point. He's also a founding member of Boyz II Men, which means he understands both artistry and market dynamics. His collection reflects that dual lens.

What Ross Actually Wears

His favorite piece is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the reversible square-case watch invented for polo players. Pierce Brosnan wore the Reverso Duo in Thomas Crown Affair, playing a wealthy art thief with impeccable taste. Ross appreciates the elegance with function.

He also owns a Rolex Submariner and keeps a travel watch in rotation.

His most recent acquisition is a Patek Philippe 5098P, chosen for its unconventional shape and distinctive character. The 5098P features an officer-style case, a departure from typical round sport watches. Ross gravitates toward pieces that stand apart.

His Advice For First-Time Buyers

Ross keeps it simple.

Buy watches that fit your lifestyle. Prioritize comfort when wearing them. The best timepiece is the one you'll actually put on your wrist, not the one gathering dust in a safe because it seemed like a smart investment.

That practical philosophy matters more now than during the speculative bubble. When flippers dominated the market, scarcity drove irrational pricing. The correction cleared out short-term speculators. What remains are collectors and enthusiasts who value craftsmanship over quick profits.

The 2025 Investment Outlook

Ross's prediction is specific.

Pre-owned Patek Philippe and Rolex watches will dominate investment portfolios in 2025. Not the entire luxury category. Two brands.

The data supports his conviction. The "big three" luxury brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet) delivered 20% annual returns since August 2018, significantly outperforming the S&P 500's 8% return during the same period. Certain Rolex sports models appreciated 15-20% annually over five years.

Patek Philippe watches retain about 30.7% above retail value on average. Popular collections like the Nautilus and Aquanaut command significant premiums due to rarity and desirability. Production remains limited to roughly 60,000-68,000 pieces annually.

Why These Two Brands Matter

The market correction answered a question many collectors avoided asking.

Which watches hold value when speculation evaporates?

Rolex maintains the strongest position, with watches consistently trading above retail at +15.7% value retention. Controlled production, global recognition, and proven track records create liquidity and stability. Patek Philippe offers similar fundamentals with even tighter supply constraints.

Ross understands that investment-grade watches must deliver both. You need market liquidity (can you sell it?) and personal satisfaction (do you enjoy wearing it?). The Reverso on his wrist and the 5098P in his collection demonstrate that philosophy.

The market stopped bleeding because quality reasserted itself. Ross's 2025 prediction simply acknowledges what the correction already revealed.