Rolex Pearlmaster is one of the newer additions to the Rolex collection first released in 1992. The Rolex Pearlmaster features softly curved lines and is characterised by uniquely rich dials and exquisite gem settings of diamonds, sapphires or rubies, but underneath this regal finery is one of the brand’s longest-running creations, the Datejust.

As you might know, Rolex Datejust (Lady-Datejust range especially) , never lacked precious stone enhancements, but  the Pearlmaster has truly taken this to a whole different level.

The Pearlmaster also sometimes gets called the Masterpiece series, so as you can imagine, there is no hint of anything except the most elegant and refined materials used in the construction. Cases are exclusively cast in 18k yellow, white or Everose gold, and the decoration is provided by diamonds, rubies and sapphires. On top of that, a completely unique golden bracelet was designed for the collection. Typified by five softly rounded links, some are also augmented with scores of flawless diamonds, and all are secured with a concealed Crownlock clasp. The Pearlmaster is Rolex at its most flashy and flamboyant, the Pearlmaster is a watch that wants to be seen.

Let’s explore the history of this lavish Rolex timepiece:

The first of the Pearlmasters arrived in two sizes; 34mm and a 29mm model and were especially designed for the female audience that always lacked for a great variety of choice in the past. The Pearlmaster was not just an incredibly eye-catching timepiece it also benefited from the same industry-defining engineering prowess that has long been Rolex’s calling card. The smaller movements inside the Pearlmasters had the distinction of the highest first time pass rates for accuracy and reliability at the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. In fact, they held the record until Rolex’s own replacement showed up, the Cal. 2235, in 1999.

At the end of the decade, with this upgrade in movement, the Rolex Pearlmaster collection became even more lavish. Rolex’s legions of gemologists were given free rein to create more extravagant examples, such as the ref. 80359 with a double ring of diamonds on the surround and lugs, or the ref. 80339, which had the option of adding a full pavé dial as well.

In 2005, the brand introduced their proprietary pink gold alloy, known as Everose, to the range.

In 2015, the Pearlmaster was given an increase in size options. A 39mm trio joined the collection, with a choice of either a red grape, olive green or cognac sunburst dial. The even more impressive asset of this trio were the bezels, they were set with a ring of trapezoidal sapphires graduating through a range of colors to perfectly match the watch face.

Inside the timepiece was an all-new movement, the Cal. 3235, with Rolex’s revolutionary Chronergy escapement, granting an increase in efficiency of around 15%.

The following year, ref. 86409RBR launched, the most luxurious and lavish piece to date, a model drenched head to foot in so many diamonds that barely a trace of the white gold case or bracelet is visible. At around $200,000, it is currently one of the most expensive Rolex watches in the world.

Around the same time, the 29mm version was quietly retired, leaving just the two larger pieces in the contemporary lineup.

Today, the Pearlmaster is a highly exclusive and luxurious collection designed for those with a taste for refinery and luxury.